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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

OT. Salamander??????

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SJ

01-18-2006 07:30:16




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I started my salamander up the other day to warm up garage,went back out later and it had quit.Never worked on one before.Took it apart and cleaned plug,fuel jet etc.Still wont start.The fan motor doesnt seem to want to turn.It just buzzes about 15 sec. and kicks out.Am I right to assume that this motor has to run to fire up unit? Is that some type of airpump attatched to rear of motor? How would you test a motor like that?Or is it telling me now that its shot?
Thanks
Stan

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Red S

03-20-2006 14:49:30




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 O.T. Humor....Red Skelton style in reply to  



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JT

03-20-2006 07:35:26




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 Re: OT: Spring must be here! in reply to Rauville, 03-20-2006 06:02:43  
You know spiring is here when you listen to the morning news and find we are under a winter staorm warning from 9:00 tonight to 4:pm tomorrow with 5-8" of snow expected. :>o Last weekend it was tornadoes, this week it is snow, what is next????
But this is Illinois, if you don't like the weather, wait a day it will change



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Keith T

01-18-2006 12:11:33




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 Re: OT. Salamander?????? in reply to SJ, 01-18-2006 07:30:16  
Try putting some penetrating oil Around the fan just behind the propeller and working it back and forth till it spins free.These little fans seem to sieze without lube .I have bought several of these on farm sales and with a little TLC I can get them running.



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Steve Crum

01-18-2006 09:05:12




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 Re: OT. Salamander?????? in reply to SJ, 01-18-2006 07:30:16  
You will notice this probably has a photoeye on the fire chamber that must "see" light in so many seconds for so many seconds or the unit shuts down. The motor must run, the pump at the back of the motor is an air pump that in conjunction with the nozzle aspirates fuel from the tank and pushes it out the nozzle for the plug to ignite. Motor no run, nothing no run. Most likely you have some crud built up in the pump rotor or pieces of foam filter that are binding the pump and not letting the motor start. The foam filter degrades over time and starts crumbling. Most people take these out and go without, but then the pump loads up with dust from the air and jams anyway. Best to get a new filter foam, take the pump apart (no brainer) clean it out and start over. Don't force the motor to turn by hand before you check the pump. If this is jammed with crud you will likely split the rotor in half and need to buy a new rotor. I've bought several of these salamanders that have had these problems, fixed them and sold them. They are not complicated at all.

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John T

01-18-2006 08:34:26




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 Re: OT. Salamander?????? in reply to SJ, 01-18-2006 07:30:16  
SJ, those types of machinery, especially heat n fire devices, are LOADED WITH SAFETY AND LIMIT SWITCHES all there for a good reason. Im confident theres a limit or air sail switch or centrigugal RPM type of safety switch that does not allow either the fuel to flow or the transformet to ignite the fuel unless and until the fan blower motor is operating. Otherwise there would be to much heat in a limited area and were talkin melt down and hazards.

If the motor dont turn it may be bad or else one of the safety or limit switches ahead of it has failed I WOULD NOT USE ANY CHEAT BY PASS METHODS TO MAKE THE FUEL FLOW OR THE TRANSFORMER IGNITE UNLESS THE FAN IS RUNNING. One could somehow isolate the motor wiring and hot wire/jump voltage direct to the motor to test if its working and if so, then suspect limit or safety switches ahead of it as they may be the cause of non operation. BUT DO NOT LET FUEL FLOW OR THE TRANSFORMER IGNITE unless the fan runs is my thinking.

Murphys law says the problem is likely the most expensive component, i.e. the fan motor instead of any limit switches BUTTTTT TT on those types of oil burner furnaces Im familiar with the transformers that cause the arc to burn to ignite the fuel were known to go bad.

John T

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Vt. Sid

01-18-2006 08:05:54




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 Re: OT. Salamander?????? in reply to SJ, 01-18-2006 07:30:16  
It's been a few yrs since I've had to do anything to mine, but I think there is a safety switch on them that will cause them to not fire. Seems to me I bypassed it with a jumper wire and it worked fine. Sid



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