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Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver 60)

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Woo

05-27-2006 20:14:21




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Completely disassembled, cleaned, and rebuilt the carb. Used welding tip cleaning wire on all the small passsages, in particular the idle circuit.

Problem: engine will not idle. When the governor/throttle is set low it hunts. Idle air screw has no effect.

Vacuum seems good.

This message is also posted in the Oliver forums.

Any ideas, should I look else where?




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ihc49er

05-28-2006 15:02:15




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Woo, 05-27-2006 20:14:21  
Just kind of wondering why nobody has mensioned disassembling and soaking it in carb cleaner,that stuff eats out all carbon and varnish deposits. no need for poking with wires just blow out passages with air. i use kleenflow, you can buy 1 gal. 2gal or 5gal. its expensive,1gal about 50.00 dollars.



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Woo

05-28-2006 16:39:42




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to ihc49er, 05-28-2006 15:02:15  
I've used Berrymans Chem-Dip in the past. Comes in one gallon can with a parts basket. Not sure it will remove rust from very small passages.



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Bob

05-28-2006 20:12:02




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Woo, 05-28-2006 16:39:42  
I agree. Crud that has hardened in small passages for the better part of a lifetime doesn't always come out, even with a good soak in cleaner.



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Woo

05-28-2006 22:31:44




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Bob, 05-28-2006 20:12:02  
Phosphoric Acid would probably be the best bet. See Link



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Allan In NE

05-28-2006 06:21:09




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Woo, 05-27-2006 20:14:21  
Hey Woo!

Just went thru all this with my Hydro 70 (same derned carb).

Whenever you take the carb off, the first thing ya have to do after you put it back on is to re-syncronize the governor. This is what is causing your "hunting" problem.

Now, after all other adjustments are made concerning timing, etc., go back and set the idle. That "idle mixture" screw really only controls air so it is not going to feel right to you.

Mine runs best screwed out just 3/8 to 1/2 turn.

Allan

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Woo

05-28-2006 16:36:33




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Allan In NE, 05-28-2006 06:21:09  
Allan,

Thanks for the info. What's your procedure for re-syncronizing the governor?



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Allan In NE

05-28-2006 17:02:46




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Woo, 05-28-2006 16:36:33  
Woo,

Mine are Internationals so they will be completely different from your Oliver 60.

The procedure should outlined be in your IT manual. And, it will kill that "hunt" fer sure.

Allan



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Dell (WA)

05-28-2006 13:03:38




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Allan In NE, 05-28-2006 06:21:09  
Allan..... ..yer right, the M/S IdleMix adjust is BASSACKWARDS. out for lean, IN for Enrich. While you generallys start yer carb tuning with both sidepointing IdleMix and downpointing MainJet at 1-turn, My idlemix usually ends up about 3/8-turn. Remember to adjust idlemix for MAXIMUM idle rpms, NOT SMOOTHEST idle, maximum idle rpms, understand? Then adjust yer behind the carb throttle speed for idle-specs. I do the idlemix adjust dance at least 3-times. Iff'n you don't know what chur tractor idle specs is, its usually a sloooow 500-rpms or less..... ..Dell

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RAB

05-28-2006 00:00:44




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Woo, 05-27-2006 20:14:21  
How low is the idle you are trying for? Perhaps just a few more rpm might solve the problem? Might improve the lubrication at idle as well as a side issue.
Regards, RAB



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Woo

05-28-2006 16:41:29




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to RAB, 05-28-2006 00:00:44  
It won't idle without hunting below ~1,000 rpm.



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Woo

05-27-2006 21:37:28




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Woo, 05-27-2006 20:14:21  
My feeling is you guys are probably right, I still have a problem in the carb idle circuit. Anyone know the size of the idle orifice? Just in case the last guy opened it up.



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old

05-27-2006 21:00:42




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Woo, 05-27-2006 20:14:21  
BTDT and its not fun but guess what. You have missed some thing. I do carbs all the time and I'm lucky if I don't open them back up at least once. Give it another try and use some spray carb cleaner this time if you didn't the first time



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Bob

05-27-2006 20:48:24




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Woo, 05-27-2006 20:14:21  
Hard to describe over the 'net, but there's a small passage clogged you haven't found yet, likely from the main jet area sideways, at an angle, to the passage that leads up to the idle circuit.

Take some time, and study out the hidden passages, and figure out how fuel gets from the main jet area over to the idle circuit, and you'll have the problem figured out. Likely, the hardened crud will have to be drilled out of the passage with a tip cleaner or tiny drill bit.

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Jerry/MT

05-27-2006 20:46:33




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Woo, 05-27-2006 20:14:21  
The welding tip cleaners that I'm aware of are like little files. You are not supposed to clean out the passages with anything but compressed air and solvents. Some folks used monofillament fishing line. Some of the passages are drilled as an orifice and using an object like a welding tip cleaner can change the orifice size and effective area. Hopefully you didn't ream out anything critical in the pasages. Blow through the passages with compressed air or a pressurized spray can of carb cleaner to make sure they are clear.
A lot of ignition caused problems get blamed on the carburetor so I usually recommend checking the ignition first to make sure that isn;t your proble,? Do you have good spark and correct timing?
What was the level of vacuum you measured and was it pretty steady? How sure are you that you don't have any air leaks around the carburetor metering section? For example, throttle shaft leakage, carb to intake manifold connect flange air leakage, or intake manifold to head air leakage, etc. These can lean out your mixture so bad that you have to choke the the carb to get it to run. If you use some hand choke does it get any better? If it does, using ether or an unlit propane torch CAREFULLY spray it around the above mentioned locations and if your speed increases, you've found the leak.
Finally,does your governor have an adjustment on it? Some times they have a "damping screw" that puts a little preload on the governor system to prevent hunting at low speed.
That's all I can think of for now. Hope it helps.

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Bob

05-27-2006 21:28:33




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Jerry/MT, 05-27-2006 20:46:33  
Jerry,

There are passages drilled in the cast iron that get so severely clogged a small drill is likely needed to clean them, and there is no harm in that, as long as the brass jets are not drilled out and harmed.



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Woo

05-27-2006 21:09:44




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Jerry/MT, 05-27-2006 20:46:33  
Thanks for the suggestions Jerry.

I only used the non-serrated portion of the welding tip cleaners. I didn't poke anything through the brass parts. Verified all passages clear using aerosol carb cleaner and compressed air. Took my time, several hours. Hard to believe I missed something, but I won't rule out that possibility.

Regarding the ignition system, it has new points and was static timmed, and then checked with a light. The plug wires are not solid or stranded. They are the resistor type, but I find it hard to belive they could be causing all the problem. The spark plugs are Champion D21's. New six hours ago. Sparking at each plug when wires are gapped.

Also with governor disconnected it dies. So I think that rules out governor rigging,

Good suction with hand over carb. Sprayed lighter fluid around manifold to check for leaks.

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Jerry/MT

05-28-2006 21:01:31




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Woo, 05-27-2006 21:09:44  
"With the governor disconnected from the carb it dies...." I'm not familiar with your governor linkage but were you holding the carb throttle shaft against the idle stop

Make sure that you didn't miss the pressure balance port in the area of the choke. It's a drilled hole or slot and it vents the fuel bowl to the carb inlet so the air cleaner restriction won't affect the metering system. If it's plugged, your idle port will pull some fuel out and the pressure in the fuel bowl will fall and reduce the fuel flow.

ALso, pull a plug wire and see if you have fat bluish spark. That's about all I have to offer.

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Dell (WA)

05-27-2006 23:11:59




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Woo, 05-27-2006 21:09:44  
Woo..... ...DO NOT USE modern resistorized anti-radio static carbon core sparkplug wires. Use COPPER-CORE sparkie wires. Your ignition system ain't gott enuff sparkie power to overcome the resistance and will cause misses and all sorts of runtime issues. New COPPER-CORE cut-to-fit sparkie wire kits $15 (cheap)..... ....Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister



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Glen in TX

05-27-2006 22:04:45




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Woo, 05-27-2006 21:09:44  
third party image

I agree with Bob that you may have missed a passageway someplace? Clean bowl and top mating surfaces well with steel wool seeing if you don't find a new plugged hole to clean out. If you are running those carbon core wires with a magneto get rid of them now! Okay on a battery dist. ignition but you will get more fire with metallic core wires. The hunting just sounds like carb problem to me yet. Make sure the new needle seat is sealing off good and float isn't bad or hanging up. New TSX floats can be had for a reasonable price and if float looks collapsed some replace it.

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Woo

05-28-2006 22:17:40




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 Re: Marvel Schebler - Idle Problem TSX-120 (Oliver in reply to Glen in TX, 05-27-2006 22:04:45  
Thanks Glen,

I'm running the resistor wires with a distributor. I don't think they're the problem, but I'm going to replace them with metal wire anyway. Spark is good 3/8 to 1/2 inch jump.



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