4010 electrical system

So,l know I have a drain somewhere, but where? Someone told me it could be that the altnator went bad, but another guy said that he doubted that would cause the battery to drain. Another guy said it might be that the ignition switch (this is one of those "spring loaded" keyed switches, not like the 4020"s which have a switch to turn on the power and a separate black starter button) has a short in it (I can test it with an ohm meter).

Before I start checking various problems, I thought I would see if there is anyone out there that has experinced a similar problem and could offer some suggestions on how to isolate where the problem rests.

And, does anyone know of an internet site to order a new ignition key switch?

I"d appreciate any help. Thanks, Rick

90% of the problems with these systems are "owner-induced" by monkeying around with them without ANY understanding of how they work.

I'll bet over half I've ever seen had the battery locations/polarity changed by "blems" changing batteries over the years, without paying ANY attention as to which way the old ones were connected up. That's where the trouble often STARTS. Add 40 years of minumum maintenance, and it's easy to see why a little "tune up" is in order.

It takes a GOOD 12-Volt starter and batteries to spin a COLD engine as well as a mediocre 24-Volt system does on these old machines, although I understand folks are having better luck with going to GEAR REDUCTION 12-Volt starters that have become available in these later years.

I have a 4020 that is seldom used, and it is still 24-Volts. Sometimes, it may sit without being started for 6 months, or more. A couple of years ago, I put 2 "float chargers" on it, one on each battery, and I plug them in if the tractor is going to be unused for a while. They don't use any more electricity than an electric clock, and extend battery life by YEARS.

Then depending on the load balance to keep the batteries charged equally is a problem. The charging system could be reference to ground with regulation of both voltages with respect to ground and then the loads out of balance would not charge the batteries unequally. This would be easy with an alternator, difficult with a generator.

Gerald J.

Also, if there is wet dirt under the operator's platform, and the battery cables have any damage, that can contribute to draining the batteries.

If it is set up "as-original" the RH battery has it's (-) side grounded to the tractor chassis. It's (+) terminal is connected to a stud in the engine side of the starter "belly", keeping the starter's internals at 12-Volts all the time. Also, the generator's internals are "HOT" all the ime, too. That's where the current drain usually occurs. TYPICALLY, this is the battery that drains while sitting unused.

If you disconnect that battery's (+) cable between uses, you should be able to get through the cold weather without the battery draining, and then throughly check out the starter and charging system in better weather!