Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

O/T Question for HVAC guys

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Pete-IN

05-20-2007 19:43:20




Report to Moderator

I have a Weil-McLain HE-II hot water boiler for house heat. Probably 12 to 15 yrs old. The pressure releif valve seems to be failing. It will release a little bit of water occasionly. Looks like something I can change out myself. My question is, if I remove the old valve and install a new valve, will this allow air into the system, along with water all over the floor and then I"ll have to call a furnace guy in anyway? Like most folks on this board,I really dislike hiring something done that I can fix myself. Thanks for any info. Pete

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Pete-IN

05-22-2007 04:16:22




Report to Moderator
 Re: O/T Question for HVAC guys in reply to Pete-IN, 05-20-2007 19:43:20  
Thanks for all the good advice guys. I checked the expansion tank and it is not waterlogged. I called my HVAC guy to fix the problem when he gets a chance. After a couple of you guys said I need to drain the system, it scared me away from doing it myself. My HVAC guy drained the system a couple years ago for some other repairs and after watching him refill it and get the excess air out(I have 6 zones) this is a project I don't want to tackle on my own. Pete

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
buickanddeere

05-21-2007 10:35:31




Report to Moderator
 Re: O/T Question for HVAC guys in reply to Pete-IN, 05-20-2007 19:43:20  
Is this a closed loop system? Or tied into the domestic water system to directly deliever hot water to the taps without using wataer to water heat exchanger?



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Randy Losey

05-21-2007 09:16:03




Report to Moderator
 Re: O/T Question for HVAC guys in reply to Pete-IN, 05-20-2007 19:43:20  
I am a plumber and it sounds as if you already have some excellent advice. Most of the time that a relief valve is leaking or discharging water, there is something going on that is making it do so. I would check the following and both have been mentioned already.
1. Pressure reducing valve could be letting more than the normal 12-15 pounds into the system.
2. The expansion tank is water logged and could be caused by a bad bladder or improper air pressure. Start by using a tire guage and check the little valve stem, you should have 10 or 11 pounds of air pressure. If you have more pressure than your water valve is letting in, it will not have pressure to expand and contract as it is made to do. If when you let air out of that stem, if there is water present, the bladder is bad and must replace tank.
Also as mentioned, do not just get any relief valve as the one you need is preset at 30psi. Hope all of this helps and as always there are lots of good help on this site.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
KSwhiteguy

05-21-2007 08:13:12




Report to Moderator
 Re: O/T Question for HVAC guys in reply to Pete-IN, 05-20-2007 19:43:20  
Pete, I have hot water heat also. Went through about the same thing, but called a heating guy instead. Cost me $2700 for a new furnance. Didn"t fix the problem.

Ended up asking around some real HVAC folks. Mine had a pressure reducing valve in line with the water line input to the furnace to reduce the water pressure to 12-15 pounds. Mine wasn"t. Had about 29.99 pounds pressure causing the popoff valve to seep. Less than $100 and some of my time later, it was fixed.

Claude

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Brian Duffney

05-21-2007 04:10:32




Report to Moderator
 Re: O/T Question for HVAC guys in reply to Pete-IN, 05-20-2007 19:43:20  
I had the same problem. The bladder tank is bad. hope it helps.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Old Timer in Ohio

05-21-2007 03:52:30




Report to Moderator
 Re: O/T Question for HVAC guys in reply to Pete-IN, 05-20-2007 19:43:20  
Good morning all
I live in this BIG white monster,
and I wonder just how important is
antifreeze in this hot water system.
Bob

God Bless



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
MarkB_MI

05-21-2007 03:30:19




Report to Moderator
 Re: O/T Question for HVAC guys in reply to Pete-IN, 05-20-2007 19:43:20  
The system in my house has an air trap that vents any air out of the system. It's mounted on top of the expansion tank. There's a vent device on top of the air trap that has a tiny float in it. If there's air in the trap, the vent opens.

If you are going to replace your relief valve, MAKE SURE YOU GET THE RIGHT KIND. They are different than the ones used on water heaters. The valve will be rated at 30 psi max.

To change out the valve, first turn off the water supply to the boiler. Then locate the boiler drain, connect a hose to it and drain the boiler. There should be some valves in the system loops that you can open to vent the boiler, open just one of them.

After you replace the relief valve, close off the drain and fill the system. Try to vent as much air out as you can through the same vent valve you opened earlier. Once the system is full, fire up the boiler and start circulating water through the system. It will take a couple of cycles to get the air out. The system will be noisy until all the air is purged.

Don't be surprised if you get new leaks after you replace the relief valve. Both the boiler drain and air vent are likely to leak; if this happens just drain the system again and replace them.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bob

05-20-2007 19:49:17




Report to Moderator
 Re: O/T Question for HVAC guys in reply to Pete-IN, 05-20-2007 19:43:20  
Typically, the system is kept pressurized to 12 PSI, and has an "expansion tank" or "bladder tank" to allow for expansion as the system heats up.

If the safety valve is "popping off" every now and then, it sounds like the expansion tank is "waterlogged", and needs air, or if it is a "bladder tank" it has failed, and needs to be replaced.

Some systems have a valve in the line to the tank, allowing easy isolation and replacement of the tank. If no valve, you will have to bleed any remaining pressure out of the system DEFORE attempting to replace the tank and/or safety valve.

And, let the system COOL first, please!

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy