TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Case & David Brown Farmall & International Ferguson Ford & New Holland John Deere Massey Ferguson Massey Harris Minneapolis Moline Oliver & Cockshutt Kubota / Yanmar

TRACTOR MANUALS

Allis Chalmers	Case	Farmall IH	Ford 8N,9N,2N	Ford
Ferguson	John Deere	Massey Ferguson	Minn. Moline	Oliver

Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

shop compressor

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register

Author

Jim Will

01-14-2008 21:03:49

Report to Moderator

Hi all I have a small Campbell Hausfeld compressor that comes up to 100lbs pres. then as you use the air when it gets low enough the motor tries to start again and blows the breaker. The compressor is plugged direct to outlet. What could it be? Jim Will

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

dave guest

01-15-2008 15:36:23

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to Jim Will, 01-14-2008 21:03:49

Well I guess we know its bad wiring(too small) or a bad compressor. But, we have to know the size of compressor. Most newer ones give you a recommended circuit rating(amps). National code allows for a larger amperage circuit breaker when starting current of compressor is too much for conditions. Try compressor somewhere else, like kitchen circuit, which should be 20amp. Don't want to rewire everything if unit is bad. If unit is good, call electrician. Fairly common problem is man knows compresors.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

JerryCPP(WA)

01-15-2008 13:39:03

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to Jim Will, 01-14-2008 21:03:49

My small compressor has a pressure relief valve (unloader)as part of the switch. Look on the underside of the switch - you might see a tab about 1/4 inch by 3/4 inch. When the pressure switch shuts off, that tab should move and you should hear a rush of air, unloading the air line. If you don't hear this, pull up on that tab with your finger. If that releases a bit of air, that unloader is sticking. Clean it up or replace it. Other wise, you have some excellent posts regarding power supply.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

ChrisB

01-15-2008 11:40:55

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to George G, 01-14-2008 21:03:49

guido said: (quoted from post at 14:30:44 01/15/08) HEY Ray

You said that the compressor on 240v will draw less current? Can you explain.

Guido.

While I am not Ray.....

and in the simplest way to explain.

current = amps

Double the voltage and the current (amps) will be half. Thus if a motor running at 120v and drawing 20 amps is converted to 230v then the amp draw will be 10amps.

Common thinking it is best to run a motor at a highest voltage allowed. Add to this the recent insane prices of copper cable. cheaper too as the cable rating (gauge) is determined by amp draw and not voltage.

Not that running 220v save on your electric bill as some think:

Watts = Voltage x Amps
Which will be the same either way, 120 or 220.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

johnand cindy

01-15-2008 09:46:27

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to Jim Will, 01-14-2008 21:03:49

install a dedicated 20AMP circuit. Inrush current too great check existing circuit with an amprobe. A 20 AMP is designed for 20A inrush current and operate at 16 AMPS 80% of total load.Also make sure wire size is correct #12. Also the receptical is 20A rated DO NOT buy junk outlets big brand names Hubbel,P&S,Woodhead, indrustrial grades are best. Do some research before making changes if unsure call a electrician. Been doing this for 33 years. John

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

sbin

01-15-2008 07:38:57

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to Jim Will, 01-14-2008 21:03:49

That problem could also be caused buy the motor starting capacitor.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

matthies

01-15-2008 19:17:28

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to sbin, 01-15-2008 07:38:57

I second sbin's reply. I replaced mine once already on my CH compressor. chris

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Sean McDonnell

01-15-2008 05:51:42

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to Jim Will, 01-14-2008 21:03:49

Sounds like it's probably the unloader valve mentioned in earlier posts. They do go bad from time to time. Be careful if you do decide to "upgrade" the electrical feed. Look at the nameplate on the motor and see what current it draws first. There should be a space marked "FLA"
that's full load amps, that is what the motor should draw when working at it's full rated HP. Generally you are safe to size your feed for about 20% above that FLA number. example..a motor with a FLA marking of 20amps would work out to 24amps when you add the 20% so you would go with a 25 amp breaker and 10gauge wire. you are allowed to go to the next standard breaker size above what is required since there aren't any 24 amp breakers. Hope this helps.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

ChrisB

01-15-2008 05:19:28

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to Jim Will, 01-14-2008 21:03:49

Blindly suggesting a 30amp breaker for what could be a 1hp motor with 11 amp draw and a 14gauge cable?????

Please refrain from doing any wiring in my house, and I pray your insurance is paid up.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

RustyFarmall

01-15-2008 04:21:19

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to Jim Will, 01-14-2008 21:03:49

I think the unloading valve is defective. This is the valve that bleeds the pressure off of the compressor when it shuts off. If the unloading valve is not working, you still have pressure on the compressor piston, and the electric motor cannot overcome this, so you trip a breaker.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

evielboweviel

01-15-2008 05:36:54

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to RustyFarmall, 01-15-2008 04:21:19

I agree
Ron

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Pajamafied John

01-15-2008 01:30:22

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to Jim Will, 01-14-2008 21:03:49

Jim, I have the exact same problem with a Husky compressor and have had the problem since new. I switched to a dedicated 20amp line with 12ga wire and it still trips out about half the time it starts to recharge the tank. The motor can be wired for 110 or 220. Im thinking of going to 220 if I can figure how to do it.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

RayP(MI)

01-15-2008 02:22:09

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to Pajamafied John, 01-15-2008 01:30:22

Going to 220v will cut current consumption in half, as well as making starting far easier. I had a similar problem, changed to 220, and never looked back. Was like a new compressor. Check the inside of the access cover on the motor for wireing diagrams, they are most likely there. You may need to change out pressure switch for a dual contact model. No big problem, available at most hardware stores of any repute. Will also need new power cord, and 220v outlet with sufficient current carrying capacity.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

guido

01-15-2008 10:30:44

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to RayP(MI), 01-15-2008 02:22:09

HEY Ray
You said that the compressor on 240v will draw less current? Can you explain.
Guido.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Janicholson

01-16-2008 06:08:28

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to guido, 01-15-2008 10:30:44

The compressor on 220 will draw about 60% of the amps (at start up) as it did before. The 220 volts will cause that to still be more watts of power. Watts are amps times volts. This increase in total power is what makes it able to start. It will use more starting power (watts) but run approximately equal in energy consumption. JimN

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Dandy Don

01-14-2008 22:30:17

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to Jim Will, 01-14-2008 21:03:49

I'd say that you need a 30 amp breaker and a deciated line (nothin' else on it) and no more than three or four feet of lead in wire. NO EXTENSION cords. Good luck. Don

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

gene bender

01-14-2008 21:41:22

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to Jim Will, 01-14-2008 21:03:49

Your wiring isnt isnt on a circut that provides enough starting current for the motor to start under load. When tank pressure is zero there isnt the same load as when the pressure in the tank calls for the motor to restart. You just need larger wire and a larger breaker.Like the other posts have said. You didnt say what size breaker you have on the circut and what other things are on the same circut.Check the motor to see what the AMPs required to operate.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

2t2@ia

01-14-2008 21:23:54

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to Jim Will, 01-14-2008 21:03:49

Is there other load on that breaker such as an electric heater, etc?

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Glenn F.

01-14-2008 21:20:47

Report to Moderator

Re: shop compressor in reply to Jim Will, 01-14-2008 21:03:49

I'm certainly no expert, but does it have the factory size/length cord on it?

Is the wiring and breaker of the electricity source adequate?

If the compressor has an unloader, which allows it to start at no load, is it working properly?

Do you have the proper size pulleys for the motor?

Are you exceeding the machine's duty cycle?

Is there any reason to believe the motor is working harder than it was intended to?

The answer to one or more of the above questions must be "yes".

Glenn F.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

[Options] [Printer Friendly] [Posting Help] [Return to Forum] [Log in to Reply]

TRACTOR PARTS	TRACTOR MANUALS

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home | Forums

Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy