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Buying a used tractor?

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David G.

02-16-2000 19:13:10




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I am currently in the market for a used tractor with a loader. I started out by looking for new ones, you get a lot of tractor but it is a lot of money too. I am writing to see if anybody has any sugestions that might help, someone who is buying a first tractor. I am looking for something: a) used for snow removal, either plow and/or snowblow. b) somthing to operate a post hole digger. I assume, from what I have been reading on this site, I need live PTO, ??? . Basically your all around household tractor. Any feedback would greatly be appreciated, Thank you.

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RMD

02-18-2000 08:06:27




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 Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to David G., 02-16-2000 19:13:10  
Post-hole digging is one job where live PTO doesn't make any difference. Live PTO would be critical for snow blowing however. Putting a loader on a 2WD farm tractor really screws up an otherwise useful machine. The older front ends aren't really heavy enough for the added weight and power steering is rare on some models. It also screws up the weight distribution and you then have to add a lot of weight to the back end to get traction. The Ford/Ferguson/Massey Ferguson style has particularly poor weight distribution to the drive wheels. I've got a AC D-12 with a loader and the traction isn't too bad (even without a lot of extra weight on the rear end), but there's no power steering. The tractor would be much nicer for most uses without the loader, but I need the loader for certain tasks. A quick-detachable loader would be a big plus.

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jakee

02-19-2000 13:35:58




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 Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to RMD, 02-18-2000 08:06:27  
have a 1951 FARMALL-H paid 1400.00 nice tractor put wide front on it 300.00 used swartz unit, used 3-point 400.00 painted it around 200.00, made it 12volt.and old horn loader for a 100.00. great tractor and it will never breake.have live hyd for it wen i get around to putting it on,wen you look for a used tractor you should look for a tractor you can count on not breaking,and easy to work on,a guy stoped the other day and ofered me 5000.00 for it .what would i replace it with one of those wheel spining utility tractors with the tonka tires no i will keep it.hell some one used it for 50 years before i came along and i will use it till my time is up,they were great tractors .i think it was after that all the $$$$$$$$$$$$$ came along and the bank owend most of the farmers machinery threw loanes.and then the dreded action..... ....

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Burrhead

02-18-2000 12:32:49




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 Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to RMD, 02-18-2000 08:06:27  
The older front ends are plenty heavy enough if you use the front end loaders that are designed for older tractors. You can add power steering from $500 to $1500 if you just have to have it.

All tractors have a poor weight distribution when you add a frontend loader. Yuppies call it a fulcrum and lever effect. That's why you buy or build the add on rear weights, and an adapter to fill the rear tires with water is to offset the leverage effect.
If a man aint in physical shape enough to run a post hole auger or push snow without power steering, he don't need power steering, he needs Richard Simmons and some Tae Bo classes anyway.

I may have to open a boot camp for yuppies around here. I never realized you boys are so tender and out of shape.

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RMD

02-18-2000 20:03:50




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 Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to Burrhead, 02-18-2000 12:32:49  
Hey, Burrhead (or is it butthead?) You ain't talking to a yuppie or a girly man here. I grew up working on dairy farms with 1950 -early 60's era row crop AC's, Olivers and Farmalls. I don't live on a farm anymore, just have 15 acres of woods.

I stick by what I said about loaders screwing up most small 2WD farm tractors. I'm sure that the guy with the initial question isn't looking for a lightweight manure loader with a trip bucket. Everybody wants hydraulic buckets, down pressure and to move snow and dirt. Most 9Ns 8Ns TE/TO Fergusons and other lightweight ag wide fronts get beat to death with the loader's weight. The 600 and later Fords and MF's are a little sturdier.

Having been used to field tractors, I was amazed at how pitiful the traction is on the Ford style machine. Had a 600 diesel with a Ford loader and even with the tires fully loaded and wheel weights (1100 lbs) off a 800, it couldn't back up an incline with a full bucket on dry ground and was totally useless in snow (yes with chains on). Yea, hang another 1000 lbs off the three point and you might get around. I've replaced that with a AC D-12 with a AC L-99 loader. The AC has better traction than the Ford even though it only has 300 lbs of wheel weights and no ballast in the tires. However, the loader weight is hell on the lightweight ag-type wide front, and even has caused cracks in the wheels radiating from the lug holes. I love the machine, but the steering is miserable, especially when you're turned around backing a wagon or trailer, or working the hydraulics and only have one hand on the wheel. If you know so much, why don't you tell me where to get an after market power steering for a D-12? (Yea I know you can get them for an M or H, but I don't have an M or H and the guy asking the initial question probably ain't buying an M or H either).

A loader is handy, but most utility size 2WD ag tractors are better machines without them. 4WD and industrial models are better suited to loaders. If the guy is looking to buy one, he ought to be aware of the limitations.

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Tenby

07-01-2004 14:36:21




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to RMD, 02-18-2000 20:03:50  
Help needed. I am looking for a 75 horse power tractors used but in good condition. Any information regarding where i can get it or the price range would be very helpful. I want to use it for ploughing.



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Burrhead

02-19-2000 18:16:50




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to RMD, 02-18-2000 20:03:50  
Oh boy another Einstein. What's that RMD stand for??? Really Mental Deficient??? I figger yes. I did'nt say you was a sissy. If you don't want people calling you names tho you better pull off the heels and lose the handbag.
When you spit out the snuff and get your eyes uncrossed you'll see what I said don't even rhyme with what you're speeling on about.
You're the perfect example of why they outlawed cousins getting married. It would have been better for the rest of us if they outlawed it before your generation.
If you had'nt got caught being perverted with that milking machine they would let you back at the dairy. Did you ever tell your wife about that?

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jakee

02-18-2000 14:58:17




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 Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to Burrhead, 02-18-2000 12:32:49  
very well said (this should be chiseled in stone)



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paul

02-18-2000 18:39:37




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to jakee, 02-18-2000 14:58:17  
Loading out manure with the Farmall H with narrow front & no power steering (and no live hydraulics) is a bit of a workout. :) :)

--->Paul



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Burrhead

02-18-2000 19:05:58




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to paul, 02-18-2000 18:39:37  
Don't get nervous, them yuppies aint gonna have a Farmall of any kind cause them Kubota and Yanmars are so cute.....
Besides that while they're standing around at the Kubota yuppie stop, they can discuss the portfolios with the other Kubota yuppies.
The reason they don't put hand cranks on a Kubota or mini New Holland is they're afraid an old timer will run up and flip the tractor over backwards on somebody and hurt them.

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paul

02-19-2000 10:30:09




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to Burrhead, 02-18-2000 19:05:58  
Actually my B-i-L got a Kubota 7100 beater & left it with me for the summer. All of 15 hp. Wasn't sure what I would do with it, but was useful for runnig some pto augers, running around fencing my cornstalks & herding cattle, and raking hay. Altho I was sitting pretty darn close to the dust....

Kind of a nice little machine, but they just aren't worth what people are paying for them. My B-i-L got a good deal, & still could get a good 65 hp IHC for less money....

--->Paul

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KS

02-17-2000 17:31:03




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 Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to David G., 02-16-2000 19:13:10  
Depending on the tractor market in your area, smaller doesnt always mean lower price. Around here small chore tractors sell for more than midsized work tractors. I was helping a friend shop for a tractor for his new horse farm, he had his heart set on a JD 1020 with a full hydrualic JD loader, every action we went to that combo went for $5500 to $7000. He end up with a JD 3020 and Dual loader and back backblade and I think he spent under $5000. Now he has more power for pushing snow and moving big bales. So if you dont need the low profile of a chore tractor, I would tell you look at 55 to 75 horsepower tractors of the 1960's. Good luck.

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Burrhead

02-16-2000 20:38:58




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 Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to David G., 02-16-2000 19:13:10  
David for safety I would definetly get a live pto on what ever brand or size tractor you choose. My next thought would be to get one that you can find parts for and if you need a mechanic, a tractor that someone where you are can work on. An old 35 Massey Ferguson or 2000 Ford with power steering is just about the right size for what you want to do. If you find and old tractor without loader you like, you can have a loader put on it and it's still cheaper than buying a new one with a loader.

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RMD

02-19-2000 13:16:50




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 Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to Burrhead, 02-16-2000 20:38:58  
Hey Butthead, what you talking about power steering for? Maybe YOU ought to work on some upper body strength.



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I agree

02-18-2000 13:22:58




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 Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to Burrhead, 02-16-2000 20:38:58  
Aruond here the late 60's to early 70's 2000 Ford is as cheap as an 8N. Plus you get a lot more tractor. I'd look for a 2000 Ford or a 135 MF, with a gas engine, easy winter starting. I've seen alot of them sell for around $5000 with a loader at times.



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Burrhead

02-18-2000 17:03:54




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 Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to I agree, 02-18-2000 13:22:58  
That's right. I saw a 135 with p/s and a loader with new rear tires that ran like a new one go for $3950 at auction. It could have stood a paint job, but the paint was all there it was just faded out.



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F14

02-17-2000 02:58:32




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 Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to Burrhead, 02-16-2000 20:38:58  
Burrhead, I'm interested to know why live PTO is safer than non-live? Never had live PTO, so it's not apparent to me what the difference would be from a safety standpoint.

Thanks,
Paul



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MikeH(Tx)

02-17-2000 05:35:12




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 Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to F14, 02-17-2000 02:58:32  
The old Fords have a pto that is directly connected to the rear axle. Running a mower/shredder acts like a big flywheel. Even when you push in the clutch and brake, and it still doesn't want to stop. Makes the first time real scary.

They make an ratcheting attachment for these kind of pto's that allow the drive to overrun the implement. For $60 you can be safe again - not that big of a deal.

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Burrhead

02-17-2000 08:07:02




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to MikeH(Tx), 02-17-2000 05:35:12  
When you get into a bind that over run clutch is better than nothing, but to a novice it's not that much better.
When you watch who is getting hurt while working with a tractor around here it is'nt the farmers with large Versatile and JD's they use every day.. It's the hobby farmers with 8n fords and old Fergusons doing weekend warrior projects. They get hurt from pto driven equipment and from the over run clutches.
I agree with you that it's not a big deal to an experienced operator, but to a novice it can make the difference between life and death.

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MrGadget

02-17-2000 10:37:31




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to Burrhead, 02-17-2000 08:07:02  
In addition to overrun, a live PTO, at least on dad's 3020 and my 560, have a built in brake. When disengaged, pulling back a little further will actually slow the pto driven equipment to a stop. Granted, it's gonna take alot of brake to slow down a spinning rotary mower blade, but it is a plus.



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Dick L

02-17-2000 09:46:57




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to Burrhead, 02-17-2000 08:07:02  

Your right Burr, to keep out of trouble without a live pto you have to have it in your mind that the first thing is to pop the pto out of gear before you try to stop. A lot like flying, if you need to go around while landing you need to go full throttle before you pull back on the stick or you go down rather than up.



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Dick L

02-17-2000 09:40:13




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to Burrhead, 02-17-2000 08:07:02  

Your right Burr, to keep out of trouble without a live pto you have to have it in your mind that the first thing is to pop the pto out of gear before you try to stop. A lot like flying, if you need to go around while landing you need to go full throttle before you pull back on the stick or you go down rather than up.



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F14

02-17-2000 08:27:59




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to Burrhead, 02-17-2000 08:07:02  
Okay, that makes sense. My JD has a built-in overrun clutch, so I never had to deal with the implement pushing the tractor. I'd forgotten about that.

Thanks.



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paul

02-17-2000 08:53:25




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to F14, 02-17-2000 08:27:59  
Along with safety, for a snowblower you really, really want a live pto. Most uses a person can get by with 'dead' pto with some experience, but I couldn't imagine inching a snowblower along without live.

--->Paul



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F14

02-17-2000 10:03:56




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to paul, 02-17-2000 08:53:25  
I can imagine. I'm familiar with the ADVANTAGES of live pto, I was just having trouble picturing why they'd be SAFER.

While on the subject of snowblowers, are 3-point rearmount blowers as much of a (literal) pain in the neck as I think they are? I hurt for days after spending 4 or 5 hours looking over my shoulder at my bush hog.



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Dave Mischler

02-18-2000 07:31:24




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to F14, 02-17-2000 10:03:56  
I use a 75" three point blower on my 500' driveway (with 90° curve and hill) and turn-around. I have a '56 Ford 860 w/ live hydraulics and PTO. I can do a quick job (i.e. good enough to get out and back in) in 15-20 minutes if there is less than 8" of new snow. A more thorough job, or more snow, takes longer.

I have two main issues with it:

1. The headlights aren't much help backing up in the dark, and it is sometimes hard to see the marker stakes in the rear (red) light. Better rear lighting and/or better markers may help.

2. I mostly blow down hill because that is the prevailing wind direction, and you will get buried if you p... uh blow into the wind.

I couldn't imagine trying to move as much snow with a rear blade as I have with my blower since the last week in January. Earlier this season we only got a couple inches at a time.

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paul

02-17-2000 21:32:24




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Buying a used tractor? in reply to F14, 02-17-2000 10:03:56  
I'm sure front mount works fine on the compact tractors with 4wd, but I would sure find it a pain to have a front mount on my regular farm tractor. My personal bias, but I think a snow blower should be on the back of a tractor where the traction is good & the expensive drivetrain is short! :)

--->Paul



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