All modern oils have detergents in them - detergents keep the "junk" suspended in the oil so it gets caught in the filter and drained out when you change oil.
The exception would be oil that is specifically labeled "non-detergent" which can still be found. DO NOT USE THIS NON-DETERGENT OIL. There is a 99.9% chance that your tractor has already been run with regular, detergent oil.
If you are concerned about "junk" in the pan, block, and valve cover - remove the oil pan, valve cover, and side cover to take a look inside. If there is junk, scrape it out, rinse it out with a solvent of some type, etc. Put it back together with fresh oil (whatever you are going to use for the long-run) and run it. If the oil looks real dirty right away, only run a few hours and change it. After that, I would change it once a year at most for what you plan to use the tractor.
Which oil should you use? I stand by my suggestion for a diesel-rate oil (the zinc). We run the CaseIH 15w-40 in everything at home, never had an oil related failure in 40 years of running CIH oil. My brother runs Rotella in his Cummins pickups - the 98 has 175k on it and doesn"t burn a drop yet.
As for me, I know how much money I have into my overhaul and it will be Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40 as long as I own the tractor.
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Today's Featured Article - Usin Your Implements: Bucket Loader - by Curtis Von Fange. Introduction: Dad was raised during the depression years of the thirties. As a kid he worked part time on a farm in Kansas doing many of the manual chores. Some of the more successful farmers of that day had a new time saving device called a tractor. It increased the farm productivity and, in general, made life easier because more work could be done with this 'mechanical beast'. My dad dreamed that some day he would have his own tractor with every implement he could get. When he rea
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