The bypass wire causes the tests to be invalid due to the voltage coming to the fault from both sides. One other thing, if the bypass allowed the system to work some, and charge some, and discharge some, the fault may not actually show up as it could if the fault had not been stressed by the current going through it. I would definitely remove and clean each connection, then use a bit of silicone grease to reassemble the clean connections. But clean is a must. The jumper wire is like bypass surgery. Not as good as unclogged arteries, and might give a false sense of wellness. It (in this case) is possible to repair the original arteries. The worst case is that the bypass bypasses the amp gauge, and could result in runaway voltage from the alternator melting and burning the alternator and wiring as well. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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