I believe you're talking about the seal behind the coupler on the front of the transmission.If so, I would not trust any additive to slow or stop the leak. You need to replace the seal, and while you're at it, replace the seal that is behind the belly pump coupling. If it's a plain M, not a super, you do not have to split the tractor, but you do have to remove the belly pump, and the entire clutch assembly, (pressure plate, disk, and trans. shaft carrier) as that's the only way the trans. shaft will come out. ONce all that stuff is out of the way, you will have plenty of room to get the couplers off and replace the seals. I would also suggest that you rplace the pilot bearing and maybe even the clutch. To me it doesn't make sense not to replace these parts in a machine this old. Check the archives. LOts of valuable help here on dissassembly.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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