Posted by ScottyHOMEy on September 26, 2010 at 20:11:33 from (71.241.201.113):
In Reply to: Re: Split tractor posted by EDW on September 26, 2010 at 19:26:16:
Ayuh. In that case, it's a bit of a tossup as to where to split. As for the pics above -- the first is of the rear of my SuperC after a split behind the motor.
The second is of the front of the tranny on my BN. It was split into four sections at the time, so is not really relevant to what you're asking about, but is offered to show in open light what you are working on - the measurements are different, but I was replacing the same seal behind the yoke. I replaced the gasket under the cover over the end of the countershaft while I was at it.
For the job at hand, you'll definitely need to eventually split where you plan and, if you start there, I'd suggest that you get the long driveshaft off of that yoke as soon as possible just for ease and safety of movement in getting the two sections apart. It's a matter of two tapered bolts, one on each (shaft and tranny) end, two threaded fore, two aft.
With all the proper support (can't repeat that too much) you can take care of that seal.
Difficulty will be that, even with the minimum separation required to get wrenches in to get the connecting yoke apart, you will have extracted the driveshaft from the pilot bearing in the flywheel, and it can turn out to be next to impossible to get it lined back up in the process of remating the tranny case with the rear of the torque tube. That alignment/fit is much more readily done with a split at the front end of the torque tube.
I'll noodle on it some more, but at this point I'd suggest you think about laying out your job (including and especially the support works for the front end), to go ahead and split first behind the motor. Then remove the tank, steering and the clutch linkage from the pedal to be able to remove the torque tube to get at the front of the tranny.
Yes, a bit more effort on the front end, but a lot less exasperation in reassembly if you can put back the torque tube first, then line everything back up -- shaft into pilot bushing and splines through the clutch disc (which may take some up-and-down on the hoist and some side-to-side oomph, but with everything in line can be achieved easily with a last twist on the *engaged* PTO shaft).
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