How big a bale wagon will you be pulling? Fourteen foot, 100 bale stacking racks or 20 foot, 200 bale thrower racks? Good brakes and enough weight to hold back a fully loaded bale wagon and baler are nice to have when baling on hills. It's also not unusual to have to down shift a 50-60 HP tractor when baling uphill with a nearly full bale wagon. A little extra HP lets you keep going to the top. If you have access to your buddy's 4020, I would consider using that on the baler when you are pulling a bale wagon. Your 630 will work, but the 4020 will get it done faster.
A IH 706 would be a nice,low cost, baler tractor for not much more money than an IH 400, 450, 560 or 656. A gas tractor should be $1000 less than a similar diesel. 4,000 bales a year shouldn't take over 15 to 20 hours a year to bale, so I wouldn't look for a diesel.
If you can consider other brands, many late 1950's to 1970 row crop tractors would do the job: Oliver 88, Super 88, 880, 1600, 1800, 1650, 1750, etc. Case 400 (the big rowcrop 400), 700, 800, 730, 830, 930, etc.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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