Are you sure you are getting the same rims????? Used to get this all of the time on JD 4020 front rims. The OEMS ones are $155 each (today"s price) but they weight 27.25 lbs each. The ones from A&I for the front are $69 each but they only weight 19.7 lbs each. Even though we could get A&I rims we kept the OEM JD ones because most of the guys breaking rims had loaders on them. The JD ones held up. The A&I ones did not.
The difference is in the thickness of the metal used. The center is very important on steering rims. Wagon wheels can carry a lot of weight but bend easy when use on a tractor front. Different stresses caused by steering. Also the off set can be very different for the same tire size and bolt pattern wheel. You never said what tractor, bolt pattern or tire size.
I have found that it pays to shop around on New Holland/Ford parts. I just repaired a NH 355 grinder mixer gear box. I deal with two different Ford/NH dealers. I don"t get a discount at either one but the parts bill was $289 dollars different between the two. I even checked the High dealer twice to make sure there was not a mistake by either of us.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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