Make sure you use metal fittings coming out of the bottom. I used brass on mine. My dad had a plastic elbow on one that cracked and cost him an extra 20,000 gallons of rural water one month. Some guys around here put them in a 3" pvc pipe to isolate them from the acid in the soil. If you do this, be sure to close up the top of the pvc pipe or the cold air will go down it and freeze the supply line. Galvanized pipe is not what it used to be. You could coat the pipe with tar and it would do the same thing. If you have high water table, the hydrant might not drain and then would freeze. Don't pour concrete tight around it, unless you make removable sections that could come out for service some years down the road. Buy a hydrant with the design of service from the top. Then you can replace the plunger and seal without digging. If you are installing it very far from your water supply, go a size larger with your pipe to minimize pressure drop.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Hydraulics - The Basics - by Curtis Von Fange. Hydraulics was one of the greatest inventions for helping man compound the work he can do. It’s amazing how a little floor jack can lift tons and tons of weight with just the flick of a handle. What’s even more amazing is that all the principals of hydraulic theory can be wrapped up in such a small package. This same package applies to any hydraulic system from the largest bulldozer to the oldest and smallest tractor. This short series will take a look at the basic layout of a simple hydraul
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