if it's the same as the 370- which i think it is--
for the big nut on the axle- 1" drive, 1-5/8 socket, 6 point, with say a 6 foot cheater pipe.
for the bolts that hold the bearings to the supports- those are 1/2" bolts so a couple 3/4 wrenches should do ya. unless they're rusted, then a flame wrench.
what i like to do is unbolt the bearings, raise the disk, and get the whole gang out from under. use a front end loader, skid steer with forks, whatever ya got that can put some serious down pressure on that gang to hold it while ya loosen the nut. then everything just slides off the axle. keep track of the order and orientation. reverse to put it back together.
the important thing is to get that big nut TIGHT. like 5-600 ft-lbs is good, 7-800 is better. if you don't get it tight enough the disks will rub just a little and it'll only take a few acres and the whole gang is loose. ask me how i know.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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