I'm a retired building inspector. The ground must slope away from your house, all the way around. Make sure you have 6" or 8" or more of fall in the first 8' to 10' away from the entire house. You must get all water away from the foundation. Get downspouts to drain completely away from the house. If some adjacent grade slopes down towards the house, get that fixed; no water should be allowed to drain TOWARDS the house. If you don't do all that, all the rest of your efforts may not work. And measure it, don't just walk around and eye-ball it; ground will settle over the years, and what was OK a few years ago not may drain properly now. Vents need to be at EVERY corner of the crawl space, to get the corners vented; that way the rest of the crawl space gets vented. Put 4 mil or 6 mil plastic vapor barrier down, securely, overlap all joints by a foot or more,a nd secure it down tight. You might put gravel on it to hold it down. If you have plastic down, you need 1 square foot of vent space or more, for about every 1000 sq. ft. of space. might need more. (And measure the actual vent space open area; don't just guess at it. )(They're not as big as you think.) Without proper plastic vapor barrier, you need 10X the amount of vent area. Yep, ten times. Keep the vents open all year long, unless in winter you want to close them off. And yep, you'll still get moisture inside, but it should be alot less.
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Today's Featured Article - An Old-Time Tractor Demonstration - by Kim Pratt. Sam was born in rural Kansas in 1926. His dad was a hard-working farmer and the children worked hard everyday to help ends meet. In the rural area he grew up in, the highlight of the week was Saturday when many people took a break from their work to go to town. It was on one such Saturday in the early 1940's when Sam was 16 years old that he ended up in Dennison, Kansas to watch a demonstration of a new tractor being put on by a local dealer. It was an Allis-Chalmers tractor dealership,
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