If its just the shear bar you are adjusting, if I remember right, it has four hard surfaced edges. Pull the two main bolts and pull it out the side and see if there are any new edges left on it. Dads 38 had a stone you pulled back and forth over the knives to sharpen them. It was a lot of years back, but it seems to me you removed two 3/8 bolts on the knife drive line so they were free and then put a small chain on two sprockets so the knives spun in reverse. As the blades were spinning backwards you would move the stone back and forth over the knives, giving it a little more tension until the knives were sharp. After sharpening, adjust up the shear bar, so it just has some clearance and no ticking. It almost seems to me that when they were in a hurry they would just run the stone over the knives with it running normal, but it was a long time ago, not sure if you would want to chance doing that. They were an easy pulling chopper, only trouble we had with it was filling the rear of a high dump silage wagon.
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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