The 35 and 38 have the same knives and shearbar and the cutterhead turns the same RPM. The early 38 has lighter feedroll driveshafts, they will swap with the ones on a 35. Probably 90% of the parts will swap, I used to do it often when I had a breakdown. Later 38s, like my dads, had heavier driveparts. I would rate the 35 and early 38 as equal and later 38 as a heavier machine. The 34 had no seperate blower and blew with the knives. OK in corn but not good for haylage. I'm going to disagree with NY986, I think the 35 was introduced and replaced the 34 about the time the 3800 (with the improved "J knife" cutterhead) replaced the late 38. If your looking for a chopper I'd move up to a 3940, much easier to adjust the shearbar.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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