I had a Morton brand building built in 1981. Their technique is to use 3 short pieces of 2x something that are very highly pressure treated and bury in concrete. The tops are different lengths and they complete the framing by bolting 3 more pieces on and going on up.
Seemed like a great idea at the time, but the "foundation" if you will is shot (rotted) and has been for at least the last 5 years. Any day I expect it to blow away.
My newest barn is from a different barn builder and he uses a full 5" square treated timber for verticals and bury in concrete. He also had a 1/8" or so, square plastic sleeve about 4' long that you slip over the pole prior to insertion in the ground that keeps the pole away from the elements...so I added that at $25 a pop. The new ban has a shed as an extension of the roof and I did not use them on the shed part as I didn't want rain water to fill them up and rot out the posts. I figure if those fail I can easily replace them.
Around here, if you don't stick it in the ground, or in the case of steel, bolt it to an anchor embedded in a concrete slab, then you can plan on talking your neighbors into letting you retrieve your barn from their south 40.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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