Considering it's a bigger tractor with a lot of drawbar pull, it would be better to replace it. It probably could be welded but you'd need to know just what type of steel it's made from to get the proper procedure and rods to weld it. Also since it broke at the hole, it would have to be welded solid and re-drilled. Generally a weld should be stronger than the base metal but you also have to consider the heat affected zone, preheat, interpass and post weld heat treatment. That's why knowing what the base metal is, is so important. Drawbars are a harder steel so they don't bend and wear longer. I wouldn't be surprised if they're similar to spring steel and although spring steel can be welded, you can't weld springs on a vehicle. Same thing with steering or suspension parts. I think Gary is right to look at getting a new or good used one. Just not worth the risk of it breaking again and causing more damage or injury to someone.
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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