I am not as knowledgable as some "cement" guys but I can tell you that the most important part of a concrete job is in preparing for it. The subsoil and your tree roots should be removed and gravel leveled in to desired grade,then the gravel should be packed down. You can use water to settle the gravel,or pack with a packer you can rent. If you use a water sprinkler to settle the gravel give it a few days to dry out after.When your slab is pured saw cut it in 8'squares and if there is any shifting it will crack along the saw cuts and not affect the appearance of your floor. We rent a diamond bladed saw from the local lumber yard,it works well and is easy to use,just chalk line where you want your cuts and follow the line with the saw,you only need to cut down about an inch. When I built my shop I used an old skill saw with a masonary blade..the dust was a bugger but in that first year the floor cracked right along the saw cuts and my floor still looks good. You can run a bead of chaulking along your cuts to the level of the rest of the floor,it keeps dirt out and the floor is easy to sweep or wash,but the floor will crack along those lines if you have frost ar any shift in the base..well worth the money to do the sawcuts..but you have to prepare your base for sure..good luck with your shop and you won't be disappointed for doing the extra work in preping.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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