Fire rating on safe HAS TO BE TESTED. They cannot just say its good for 1200 for 30 min. They are either tested by the UL or NFPA. Typicaly depending on if your fire dept is paid or volunteer and how far away you live from them, your lookin at an average of 5-10 mins at least from time of call. A typical house fire can range from 1200 to 1800 degrees depending on the varaibles. Also even after the fire is out you still have a good bit of heat left and a lot of water and steam damage. So that bein said the extra you spend may or may not be worth the money in my opinion because of the dynamics of fire and the diff variables that affect fires behavior. Safes are better than just a metal or wood gun cabinet for protecting your guns/valuables. Also check with your insurance company on your guns. Some companies require a special rider policy for guns. Myself bein a firefighter for 18 years i bought the best rated safe I could. One for theft and two that safes help. I wouldnt say they dont fail in a fire but your chances of your guns being undamaged in a fire are a lot better. Also if you are considering putting it in a basement I would poor a raised pad to sit it on. In the event you have a fire (hopefully you never do) but all the water there usin is most likely a good bit gonna end up in the basement.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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