I have in fact put a circuit breaker in as of the moment.. The problem still is if I sit at a stop sign/red light too long, my brake lights will eventually cut out, so I want to correct the problem.
1655, thanks, but I am in southeast lower MI, near Toledo Ohio, so it's a bit of a haul.
The compass trick sounds like a pretty slick one, and I may in fact try that after I isolate the "leg" in which has the problem.
The truck currently don't have a brake controller. I have one to install, just have not got to it yet.
When I bought the truck, within a couple months of driving, I found it had this problem (on a long trip with the 4-ways on, it started to eventually smoke).. with the rear lights disconnected, it did not trouble. The bed was originally wired with "flat 4 wire" like you would see on utility trailers and the like, and had rubbed through where the wires "turned". I rewired with double insulated (extension cord type) wire. I have a feeling it is rubbed bare again up inside the headache rack where the wire turns (rough roads tend to cause excess vibration.. and it was 5-6 years ago now), but I can't see inside where it makes the "turn" and I hate to cut and yank the wire to find that's not my problem..
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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