I took the time today to work on my lighting.. I made a meter as i previously described.. I put it on the "input side" of the brake switch and showed what I thought was rather low amperage (hooked it to one light before testing on the truck to get a feel what each bulb should show).. The gauge showed very close to 4x what one light showed, which threw me for a loop..
I noticed it took about 45 seconds for the terminal on the "live wire" to be too hot to touch.. I completely disconnected the brake switch and used my amp gauge setup as a "jumper".. showed a slightly less amperage, and after nearly 3 minutes of the brake lights being on I could still touch the terminal that would have previously been too hot.
I hooked my brake switch back up, and noticed I lost nearly 3/4 of a volt across the switch..
Being this is the 6th 80's era Ford I have owned, I dug into my stashed parts and found a new in the box brake switch I had bought somewhere along the line.. I installed it, and checked voltage from one pole to the other.. about .01 difference in volts.. Held the brake down for a few, and terminals seemed to stay cool, and not trip the breaker, so I'm calling it problem solved.
Hopefully, that's it.. I'll find out after a few days I'm sure.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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