When I give up trying to hand crank my WC I hook it up and pull it. Put it in 4th gear and have your foot on the clutch. Have the puller (truck/tractor) begin moving; it should be in 2nd or third (8N ford is what I use). You don't need much speed but you do need to make sure the pulling tractor is idled up and wont be bogged down by the load. Make sure you leave 15'-20' safety when doing this. When pulling my WC I usually have it (WC) at half throttle. When the whole group is moving, slowly let out the clutch and get the engine turning. Leave your foot on the pedal ready to press down. Usually you don't need much choke when pull starting (quick in and out). As soon as it "takes off" press the clutch so you don't run into the pulling tractor. The front driver should be watching too and can stop after you have the started tractor under control.
Another option is to belt it up if you have another tractor with a belt pulley and a flat belt.
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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