dave. i run 5 lb/gallon mix of calcuim chloride in my working tractors. the loader tractors also have cast iron weights too. the added weight will cause some soil compaction, but its a heck of a lot better than rolling a tractor over. my opinion, the tractor handles a lot smoother ballasted. another problem without a lot of ballast, the hydraulics on most loaders have far more power to lift a load than the counter weights on the back of the tractor, and nothing is scarier than having one of the rear tires come 2 feet of the ground when doing loader work. ballast the living snot out of your loader tractor. i prefer the weight on the tractor, not on the 3 point. wide front tractors will flip just as easy as a widowmaker front end if you try and lift too much,too high,too fast, and on too soft ground.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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