I use the antifreeze and water solution at about 50 gallons per tire for 16.9x28 on the current downsized big tractor (65 hp). I don't use the CC as I don't like to deal with the rust. I don't run that much AF either to keep costs down and seems to work ok.
Like to 50 gallons of water about 10 gallons of AF. Winters aren't that cold and the tire guy who installed it (local sell any tire for any application including earth movers) said that if it gets to slush it won't hurt the tubeless tire.
The thing I like about it is that it fills the lower half of the tire which is the best thing you can do to lower your CG and help to prevent rollovers. But if you stop in a hurry, expect the tractor to rock back and forth for a couple of minutes.
I had 3 large rear weights per side (guessing 150# per wt.) on a JD 100 hp drawbar tractor with cab. I took them off because they kept popping (breaking) the clamps where the hub attaches to the outer rim. The weight of the cab was sufficient to prevent slippage (much) when plowing.
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Today's Featured Article - Box Plow Blues - by Tom Schwarz. One of the first implements most tractor owners obtain is the box plow. For very little money, this piece of equipment promises to plow and flatten any hill or vale on your ranch road or farm. At least that's what I thought! As simple as a box plow appears, it can be rather challenging to make work correctly. In our sandy soils of Florida, traction is king. You can never have wide enough tires or heavy enough weights to get all the traction you want … unless you own a monster tractor. U
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