I'm not a painter but I have a few pretty nice looking tractors. The first and most basic rule for me is: Don't use expensive paint over a five hour prep job, and don't use cheap paint over a fifty hour prep job. Red is more susceptible to fading than any other color. The next step for you if you decide to take the mission is paint and rust removal. Most here use a cup style twisted wire brush in a grinder. To do a good job you will need to remove a lot of parts like the air cleaner, battery, ignition coil, generator, starter, so that you can clean behind them and get paint on the backside of the parts. Most people that work on old rusty stuff use acid wash to get the rust out of pits in steel and cast iron after removing all visible rust. The phosphoric converts the rust into inert iron phosphate, and prevents it from bubbling up after 2-3 years. As with anything else you must follow the directions on the product container, and take proper common sense steps to insure that you are not shooting your primer over water. There is a whole lot more, but one item that I have not seen is to insure adequate lighting, to insure good smooth final prep and level and even paint application. If you just go back over the paint and body work forum you can read for a few hours on the subject, and it is a wealth of knowledge from pros.
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Today's Featured Article - A City Guy's First Tractor - by Fred Hambrecht. After living in apartments in Atlanta for more years than I care to remember, the wife and I decided to move to the country. Humming "Green Acres is the place for me..." we purchased a 29 acre tract about 60 miles south of Atlanta. Next came the house, I could talk about that ordeal for another two weeks... But, I want to talk about my tractor! We didn't even own a lawnmower, and all of a sudden we had enough grass to feed all the starving children of the bovine world. Naturally, I talked
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