Kind of a long shot, but my 4020 developed the pto no shut off problem a few years ago. The only way to stop the shaft was to slow idle the engine and pull back hard on the pto brake.
The problem finally showed itself this summer. The pto lever shook violently and a big noise from inside the bell housing. Found one of the 3 pto finger adjusting bolts had broken off just below the surface of the finger. This broken bolt head did not fall out at first, but cocked sideways holding that one finger partly engaged, causing the pto run on. finally it wore enough to fall out making all the noise and vibration.
I was able by working through the little access hole in the bottom of the bellhousing, to remove the finger with the adjusting bolt. Replaced the bolt and finger and adjusted it close to the others. PTO works like new again.
Late model 20 series tractors had larger finger bolts on the pto, so there was a problem with them breaking.
You could check for a broken finger bolt by doing a visual from the bottom hole, maybe poke them with a large long screwdriver to see if the head wiggles.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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