Dave, I used the WedgeLoc hardware when I fenced my yard for the dog about 15 years ago. For corners I used 7 ft posts driven 3 ft into our very rocky glacial till. Brace posts were about 6 ft away and only driven 2 ft, as were line posts. Corners got braced with just a diagonal hard brace and no wire, but where I hung a gate I used a hard brace and wire combined. If the gate was in the middle of a straight, I put a post about 6 ft inside the yard to brace that post and keep it from bending. I hung up to a 12 ft lightweight steel gate (no wheel) on that setup with no problem. When I took up a section of that fence a couple years ago, it was darn near impossible to pull those corner posts. Some of them had hit rocks when I drove them and they bent about 15-20 degrees as they were driven.
On the other hand, I tried using the WedgeLoc hardware to put a fence at our California vacation home, and it didn't work well at all. Posts pulled out of the sandy soil (desert) there too easy, and when I tensioned the fence, which was 47 inch field fence, it pulled some of the corners up. Probably pulled too much tension, but I used the same tension there as I did here in Washington.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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