The 1566 had two bolts with a wedge on each end. The other tractors like a 1066 have a single bolt with wedge on each end. On the 15 you do not need the clamp on tool like some are talking about. The wheel has stops cast as part of the wheel. But, what you do need it enough room between dual hub and inner wheel to get a wrench in. If not you have to remove the dual hub. If it is so loose you can feel it is loose you may have one broken bolt, may not. You have to tighten those two bolts evenly and if you cannot rap the top of the axle with a large hammer you will need to retighten every round in the field until it stays tight. A 150 pound man on the end of a 4 foot pipe is 600 ft pounds of torque and is plenty. More may damage threads.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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