Stranded copper wire (improved flexibility and vibration resistance) of sufficient ampacity (like 12 Gauge if thats what you have) is okay to use and, of course, any splices need to be inside a junction box in an accessbile location. If you use a metallic box (covered, and use romex clamps or other appropriate entrance and exit), be sure to also ground the box itself to the equipment GroundING Conductor (the bare or green wire). They make those short copper ground jumper wires with the green grounding screw attached that works to ground the boxes. Or use a blue plastic box no grounding required.
I agree with the posts below, when using wire nuts on sold wire a few good tight twists of the still insulated portions of the wire just outside the nuts better secures the wires inside. I like the heavier solid plastic wire nuts versus the thinner flexible type in locations where strength is important, if they are tightened down and the wires well twisted outside the nut, that makes for a secure connection.
GFCI is required for outdoor locations which could be a GFCI outlet itself or if its fed by a GFCI upstream or a GFCI breaker etc.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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