My jubilee was recently rebuilt and upgraded, I say downgraded, with a spin on oil filter. If my tractor sits for a week, 1/2 the oil in the filter leaks back to the crank case. I've tried many oil filters, they all leak back. I even took off the filter and sure enough no oil leaked out of filter, but the dip stick showed too much oil.
That said, I switched over to full synthetic and no issues, no runs, drips or errors. If I start my tractor every day, it builds oil pressure almost instantly like it should. If it sits for days it could take 10-20 seconds before I see the oil pressure built. It has to fill the oil filter first.
I have no proof, but I'm hoping the synthetic oil does a better job of protecting the engine during a 20 second dry start.
To date, I have no issues with full synthetic, which I purchase at Wal-mart at a cost almost equal to regular oil at other places. George
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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