I remove the old grease fittings an take parts/brake cleaner and clean what old grease out I can. I then install new fittings. I usually put a round bale on the running gear front end. They will usually set on just the coupling pole and the front bolster well enough to act as a weight. I then take a tractor at a 90 degree angle to the wagon and hook it to the hitch. Then just wiggle back and forth real easy. They usually will wiggle just a little bit and pretty soon you can get them to take some grease. The round bale is heavy enough to put some force on the spindles but light enough that if they are stuck too tight the wagon can skid and not break anything.
If this does not work than I take a Rose bud heating tip and heat the heck out of the outside tube. This will usually get the most stubborn ones to move.
I did have one that would not even move when I did that to it. I ended up taking a cutting wheel and splitting the pipe top to bottom. I then was able to get it apart with heat. I then just welded the slot back shut. I did have to ream the bushings out as when the weld cooled it shrank the pipe some. But I did get it to move.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Hydraulics - The Basics - by Curtis Von Fange. Hydraulics was one of the greatest inventions for helping man compound the work he can do. It’s amazing how a little floor jack can lift tons and tons of weight with just the flick of a handle. What’s even more amazing is that all the principals of hydraulic theory can be wrapped up in such a small package. This same package applies to any hydraulic system from the largest bulldozer to the oldest and smallest tractor. This short series will take a look at the basic layout of a simple hydraul
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