You can only hold maybe 25-30 PSI with your finger over the brake line hole. The system will operate at up to 2500 PSI. So if you can move them with compressed air they will easily move with the brake pressure applied.
Some things to do:
1) Remove the bleed screw and liberally cover it with anti-seize. I have had much better lucky with the copper high temperature product over the silver zinc base kind.
2) Install the brake cylinder on the mounting plate. Install the return spring and make sure it will pull the piston back down. If it does than you have no worries. If it does not then something is not correct. Take it apart and see if the cup is the correct one for the bore. Measure the small part of the cup. It should match the bore. If it does then maybe the bore is not smooth enought. Hone it some more and see what happens. Also use silicone lube rather than the brake fluid when putting it together. The brake fluid is not a very good lubricant. Put some between your fingers and rub and you will see what I mean. It is actually close to a solvent.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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