I have used an old, worn out plywood blade in my circular saw, installed backwards. The teeth are now worn almost smooth from cutting LOTS of sheet metal. It will make good cuts, but it does it by melting the sheet metal, which burns the paint or galvanizing at the cut. That hasn"t seemed to matter much, but it seemed like a place that might rust. Also it is extremely loud and the process throws sparks of molten metal. It will sure make a plastic case circular saw look ugly from the hot metal bits sticking to it. But it works, it is cheap and as accurate as the operator of the circular saw can make it.
However the cuts made with a shear by the metal supplier are MUCH nicer. When I am going to order sheet metal, I measure very carefully for each piece and make a drawing of what lengths are supposed to go where. Still there are always a few places that end up needing cuts at the building site.
I have tried tinsnips and still use them for some things, but I have a hard time matching the accuracy and speed of using the circular saw, especially when crossing ribs.
Safety gear is a must! Ear protection, GOOD eye protection (and maybe a face shield) and heavy gloves are necessary. And I wouldn"t plan wearing the clothes you wear while cutting to town afterwards! Good luck.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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