There are 2 different wiring schemes here the one on the left switches the batteries in series or parallel, and the wring diagram on the right switches the Motors in series or parallel to provide the high/low function.
The resistor connected to the throttle switch is a Dynamic Braking (DB) load, a missing resistor here, would just mean the when the throttle is released the unit will coast instead of the load resistor introducing a load across the motors (which will be operating as generators when the unit is coasting) to provide braking.
One good possibility here would be that on the physical wiring configuration the resistor was used as a tie point and when the resistor was removed someone did not re-connect the 2 leads that used the resistor as a tie point.
How are you testing the switch with power on or by using continuity tester?
There are many possibilities for wiring errors or open or bad connections here, Also the jumpers on one of the switches could be missing.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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