There is the lock collar on the bearing. Look real close in the bottom of the pulley "V"s I am remembering a set screw in that triple pulley. I thought it was not in the collar like normal. Like I said check the bottom of each "V" grove out.
Also as far as it being rusted or not. Even if it set inside everyday of its life that pulley will be rusted on the shaft. Those surfaces where never painted until after they where put together. That gear will not just slide off easy. It will take some force.
I would take the back all loose first. Then try to get the lock collar loose on the front bearing. Then if you can't find any set screws in the triple pulley try driving the shaft out of the sprocket/pulley/front bearing.
Like I said I remember having to drill a hole to let me use a punch/bar stock to drive the shaft out the back. This has been 15 years ago or more so it is not as clear as yesterday but I remember having "FUN" changing that bearing.
I would also change the back one while you have the whole auger loose. Also look at the flighting. If it is worn just buy some flighting and re-flight it.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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