No, they are all like that. They all just drop in. You don't have to do anything. The reason those things go bad is that there is a snap ring and shims to tighten the wheel bearings. Lots of guys running on asphalt or hard packed stone all day will really put a bruising on them, and never re-shim the hubs. Then it wears them out.
Don't be alarmed. When you get the bearings shimmed correctly, there is no worries.
I've done a whole bunch of those. The other big thing with those machines is that the chain cases bend where the rear hubs attach and then the hubs ride crooked and it wears out the chains. Torches and a small ram on a port-a-power and about 6 hours takes care of that.
It's also a good idea to slather the bottoms of the studs with grease before you slide the hub on. That's a big rust problem area on those machines when they get older.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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