I've been having more trouble with mine the past few years with some of the newer twines. Make sure the twine tension slides in the twine box aren't too tight, and after the needles trip into the chamber, make sure some hay is still flowing. I have a tendency to hit the brakes as soon as the signal goes off, and the needles haven't gone into the chamber yet. So, there's no hay moving underneath the needles and the twine just hangs there. Another thing I have done with mine that seems to help, is to take some strips of 3M deck tred and stick them on the lower roller. It's really shined up and slippery. I wiped it off good with alcohol swabs and put a 12" strip between each of the friction bars. It's rough like sandpaper, and seems to provide some extra grip on the twine. Nothing has been foolproof, but it's helped. I have also noticed that a heavier windrow starts better than light material- keep the head loaded. Another trick I have done on my machine is to put two pulleys on the front left side and looped the twine over them- one pulley for each side, and painted a cross on them. It makes it really easy to see the twine moving or if one side didn't start for some reason. These are just small idler pulleys on a bearing- the twine does one loop over them on the way across the front to the glass feed tube going to the needles. They start to spin as soon as the twine starts to feed. Very easy to see..
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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