I have a 648 which is essentially the same baler, and have struggled over the years to get the twine issues down to a minimum. Here's what I've learned:
1) Make sure the tension is properly set coming out of the roll through the first tension guide. Even a miniscule difference in tension can throw the operation off.
2) Make sure your knives are sharp and cut well, and that the cutter arm (left side) is greased well. It is spring-tensioned and this can be adjusted too, in case its not springing closed tight enough to cut completely.
3) Make sure you have enough hay feeding the chamber when the twine arms drop to the center. Either bigger/fluffier rows, or going faster, will help grab what twine is hanging.
Also, if the twine cutters do their job they will pinch and hold the twine in place while the tubes retract, giving you even more twine to be caught by the incoming hay. If it simply cuts the twine and doesn't hold, you might only have 2-4 inches of twine hanging out. Although this isn't necessary.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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