I will second "Bob's" post. Wrong starter drive. They are just an over running clutch so that when the engine starts it does not explode the starter. If they put the one for a front mounted starter on your IH one the overrunning clutch would not drive the flywheel. It would be free wheeling.
Crab the starter drive gear with a pair of pliers. You can see what way it drives that way.
A trick to see how the starter drive is engaging is to paint the starter drive gear. Install it and crank the engine or attempt to crank the engine. LOL Remove the starter and look at the painted gear. If the drive gear engages the ring gear you can see how it mated in the paint on the starter drive gear. Heck while you have the paint can handy paint the ring gear. You can tell then how the starter drive is engaging it too.
If it is the correct one and still not crank but you are sure it is engaging the ring gear, it has to be the ring gear is broken. I have seen them crack and run free on the flywheel. That is easy to check with the starter off. Just take a pry bar and try to turn the motor over through the starter hole by turning the ring gear.
This post was edited by JD Seller at 00:19:21 07/24/13.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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