I know this is not a practical suggestion, but LED lights draw much less juice and are easier on the switch and give out a white light that makes the old lights look yellow. But the price tag is enough to choke a horse! My 1086 has a habit of burning the headlight fuse because the clips are too weak to make good contact. I too want to keep everything 'factory'. I've replaced two of the lights with LED's now, trying to lighten the load on the fuse, and would like to replace the other four but I just can't make myself justify $500 or whatever it is for four lights on a 35 year-old tractor. Then again, there's nothing that will raise your pulse more than to be tooting along at 22 MPH on the road at night and lose the lights. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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