Well guys, after a second look, and seeing no cracks in the block and talking with the gentleman a little more, I ended up giving him the cash. I ended up giving $450 for it, as it sits. The tin is in good shape, a couple of dents on the right (clutch) side on the hood and lower portion of the grill. It has been cut around the muffler, but the patch job done was very nice. I may just use the patch to repair the cutting job.
He was gracious enough to show me most of his collection as well (which was pretty impressive!). He has tractors from nearly every major make! (Several JD's, Massey Harris, a BEAUTIFUL Farmall F-20 wide front on steel, Minneapolis Moline, Case). It was really quite amazing! Enclosed you will find pictures, and the serial number is barely legible (513955) which makes this a 1941. He estimated it to be a 47. It just happens to be the same year as Gramp's Case SC! How neat is that?!
Now for the big question: What is the trick to getting the wheel clamps loosened after X amount of years being in the same position. I am going to have to narrow them up when I get over there to pick it up, in order to get it on the car hauler. Any tips (other than lots of lube and a big wrench)?
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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