You're on the right track testing for drain with the test light. A volt meter is going to show volts even with a minimal draw, as in the memory circuits in the radio, ECM, etc.
If you want to attach a number to it, you will need a DC amp meter, connected just as you connect the test light.
I'm wondering if something is interlocking and causing the drain. The interlocked load remains until you disconnect the battery cable to connect the test light, that breaks the circuit, the load goes away, so you get a false test with the light.
Something to try, connect the battery, start it up, drive it, shut it off. Then in a dark area,carefully watch as you pull the battery cable and see if there is a one time spark. If there is a underhood light, disconnect it before you start this test.
If you do have access to a DC amp meter, do the above test, but have the amp meter leads connected BEFORE you break the battery connection so the amp meter will carry the uninterrupted load.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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