I've heard the same thing about using a Torx bit in the head-screw, but I wouldn't do it. It's easy enough to break it even with the correct wrench. Like you stated - always give it a good rap with a hammer and punch before trying to remove. By the way, besides the standard Torx wrenches - Torx also makes bit with square-edged teeth like a Bristol. Never tried to use on though. The OEM Bristol wrench from Stanadyne was selling for $5 each last year from Thompson Diesel and I bought half-dozen of them.
I've been updating all the JDB and DB pumps I do with the solid aluminum drive-ring from Stanadyne. Adds $45 to the job. I've been told an EID drive can also be used but I haven't tried it. All on-the-road vehicles got EID drives after mid 1985. Like in Ford and GM pickup trucks and GM SUVs. 6.9, IDI 7.3s, 6.2s, and mechanically injected 6.5s.
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Today's Featured Article - Engine Valves - Some Helpful Information - by Staff. Intake - On the intake stroke the piston moves doward, sucking in carburized fuel through the open intake valve. Exhaust valve is closed. Compression - With both the intake and exhaust valves closed, the pistons upward stroke compresses or squeezes the fuel into the combustion chamber. Firing - Ignited by the spark, the compressed fuel explodes and forces the piston downward on its power stroke. Intake and exhaust valves are closed. Exhaust valves and seats are exp
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