Just above where the drop arm exits the steering box there are slot screws with locking nuts on either side of the steering box. Loosen the nuts and tighten the screws in until the steering locks, then unscrew until it is just free and retighten the lock nuts. To get the steering back into sequence, remove the trackrods and turn the steering until the gears fall out of mesh. Now pull one steering arm fully forwards and the other fully back. Let both arms drop down until they hit on the gear and push down hard on them both at once with an even pressure. The steering wheel should spin and both arms should end up pointing down to the top bolt of the foot rest peg. If not repeat the process.
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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