Do you have access to electricity? If so, set railroad ties or large posts atleast 3 ft. deep at the corners. Steel T-post every 20ft. 3 or 4 strands of 14 ga. wire with plastic insulators. And the most powerful fence charger you can get. Gallagher is a good brand at the top-end. The MOST important thing is at least 2- 8ft long ground rods driven in at the fence charger. One at the charger and the rest every eight feet with quality clamps.
No electricity? Same corner posts, but with brace posts and H-braces in all corners. Steel T-post every 10ft, and 3 or 4 strands of barbed wire stretched VERY tight. Why you need the H-braces at the ends, 'cause you need to stretch it.
Or, if money and electricity is available, corner H braces and big posts or ties every 40 feet and 3 or 4 strands of high tensile electric. Uses tension springs and wind-up tensioners. Again, VERY tight so you need GOOD corners.
Did I mention good corners and tight?
Go cruise around Premier fencing website to see how to build good H-braces and pricing.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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