Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
 
Marketplace
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts
Salvage

Community
Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Your Stories
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Galleries
Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Articles
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs
Glossary

Miscellaneous
Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

  
Tractor Talk Discussion Board

Re: Driveway construction recommendations


[ Expand ] [ View Replies ] [ Add a Reply ] [ Return to Forum ]

Posted by Billy NY on March 01, 2014 at 10:14:16 from (66.67.105.23):

In Reply to: Driveway construction recommendations posted by gwece on March 01, 2014 at 09:49:44:

Fabric will give more support, usually its needed due to the sub soil conditions being not so suitable. What kind of subsoils do you have, are they stable ? If not I would consider fabric, or rubble - large crushed stone/gravel for a sub base or both. What kind of loading is to be expected on the road, passenger car, pick-up truck, anything heavy - ie; if there is an ongoing building project at the other end, concrete, material and other heavy trucks.

Will it ever be paved ?

Once the top soil is stripped, it should be vibratory rolled, this will tell you if its got problems, pumping water, soft or what have you, if not like around here, will just compact whats on top and disturbed. Then place the sub-base material, compact 95% or better, depending on moisture, other conditions etc. Then place your crusher run, in NY a common name is Item #4, NYS DOT specified, grade it so it has a crown for water to shed off, compact and its done. You also need to eliminate any drainage problems near and around the road bed, culvert pipe or grade the surface, use a ditch etc., so it can't wash or saturate the road bed,

I've always had the silly idea of using portland cement in the crusher run, mixing in place with a tiller or something, then grade/compact, to get the crusher run to bind stronger, not like concrete but better than it can on its own. Far fetched idea, but I have done it on a small scale, can work if done properly the right amount/proportion of portland is used and you can moisten it, but not too much like a heavy down pour.

In this area and in NJ I built a fair amount of roads, often times the top soil was stripped and gravel or crusher run was placed, graded and compacted, residential developments and homes mostly, subsoils were suitable for building on. I've worked on water logged and roads abounded by water too, changes things quite a bit when things are soft.


Replies:




Add a Reply

:
:
:

:

:

:

:

:

:

Advanced Posting Options

: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.



 
Advanced Posting Tools
  Upload Photo  Select Gallery Photo  Attach Serial # List 
Return to Post 

TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga ... [Read Article]

Latest Ad: Nice Marvel Schebler DLTX 8 bronze body carburetor For 1934-1936 unstyled A tractor.Serial No.410000-42850. All restored and ready to use. [More Ads]

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy