I did my own furnace, changed the orifice ($5 worth of parts, size easily determined from the mfr install manual), readjusted the manifold pressure with a manometer (again per the specs in the install manual). The 2nd part may be a little more than an avg homeowner but not rocket science. Range was simple, flip the orifice from LP to NG as most gas stoves are sold for both, adjust the pilot flame (if you've got one). Again this was all documented in the Stove install manual.
As for a posted comment that copper is a no-no with NG, this statement is no longer valid in many places. The problem was amount of a corrosive additive and most suppliers say that copper is fine with their NG product nowadays. Check with your NG supplier.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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