I drive a FL106 Freightliner with a service bed on it. That said one of his big problems is that the trucks suspension is designed to handle X amount of weight, and if he"s not loaded enough there isn"t enough weight to cause the suspension to actually "bend" and do it"s job. The result is that it feels like your riding on a solid block of steel rather than a sprung frame. Ask him if it rides any better with a load than it does unleaded. I know my truck basically rides around with a full load all the time and it rides pretty good.
As far as the seat goes, like others have said, tell him to let all the air out and then add it back until it picks him up and feel like it has a bit of bounce to it. I weigh in around 175 to 180 so his weight, or lack of, shouldn"t make that much difference as he isn"t far off from me. Too tell him that it may take a bit of getting used to, but if his seat is designed with a glide (floats front to back) setting, that it makes a world of difference in the ride if it"s unlocked and allowed to glide. It took me a bit of getting used to it, but now I can tell in a heartbeat if the lever gets moved and locks it back in.
Beyond that, it isn"t rocket science, so his best bet will be to just play with the seat controls until he finds the setup that works the best for him.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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